MATERIALS + TERMS
The allure of gold has captured human imagination troughout history, it remains an icon of enduring wealth, and is treasured by nearly all societies.
Prehistoric man saw the sun symbolized in gold, and no other metal on our earth equals this warm, orange-yellow color. Gold, namely fine gold (999.99%), has unmatched properties. Not all of them are suitable for jewelry production. In particular, their soft and doughy nature is counteracted by adding other metals.
The color of such alloys can also be influenced in this way, and the nuances of yellow gold alloys unfold, from rich warm orange-yellow, to cool, pale slightly greenish-yellow gold. In the color box of metallurgists and goldsmiths, there are also red gold and rose gold and medium gold, and various white gold alloys. All these colors change imperceptibly over time because gold, as well as silver and platinum, have a very low chemical reactivity. They hardly combine with oxygen in the air, do not oxidize, which so makes them skin-friendly precious metals.
How noble and genuine is the use of materials? In craftsmanship, the primary concern always is about what others need. What does the piece of jewelry need, what does the material need? In terms of design and process, also in terms of uncompromising manufacturing quality, there is no economizing, no make do with second-best solutions. Following this self-conception, ATELIER ALLURE only uses high-quality white gold.
Inferior variants, which can show unattractive brown or yellow tints and restrictions regarding skin compatibility, are not part of our program and offer. High-quality white gold has a warm, slightly grayish tone and thus subtly contrasts with the cooler platinum. In most cases, palladium is an alloying element. For many gemstones, this warm hue represents the ideal environment in which the materials support each other in their effect by complementing each other and thus come to their most harmonious unfolding.
ATELIER ALLURE gives due importance to the authenticity of the material. In a metier of luxurious raw products, where the value of trust in authenticity, proven by certifications, is central, this is a logical conclusion for us.
The rhodium layer applied to over 90% of jewelry made in white gold in Central Europe is a very light, very white platinum by-metal. This layer not only masks the natural white gold-tone but also, like any galvanically applied layer, rubs off over time, revealing the substrate in spots and creating an unattractive surface. Nevertheless, this practice is so common that absurdly even the most white gold aficionados among jewelry lovers have hardly ever seen pristine white gold.
Originally, the idea of turning yellow gold into white gold came from an effort to simulate the precious metal platinum, which was initially twice as valuable. Although this motivation has become obsolete today due to wildly fluctuating gold and platinum prices, where ratios sometimes reverse, the practice of surface plating nevertheless continues habitually, detached from the original idea. After all, if precious metal prices fluctuated accordingly, would platinum be gold-plated in the same way? As absurd as this thought may seem, it corresponds exactly to the practice of rhodium plating white gold.
For ATELIER ALLURE, white gold is an autonomous jewelry alloy and not a substitute for platinum. Those who prefer the look of platinum should also choose platinum, and those who prefer white gold should consequently choose white gold. Or in other culinary terms: if you have an appetite for a strawberry, you should treat yourself to a strawberry and not a kiwi that has been manipulated into a strawberry.
What is written on the outside should also be on the inside!
With this demand, no room is given to deceptive packaging, dazzling, or trickery, which is why ATELIER ALLURE refrains from the common practice of rhodium plating.
In the spirit of purity and authenticity, the precious alloy NIELLIUM, exclusively developed by ATELIER ALLURE, was born.
Patented by ATELIER ALLURE in 2020, NIELLIUM, with its dark anthracite color, is a worldwide novelty and a new splash of color on the palette of the metalworking industry.
The dark precious alloy consists mainly (approx. 87%) of platinum, palladium and silver. The material is genuinely colored black through and through and is neither surface-treated nor coated. Read more about the inspiration and motivation behind the creation of NIELLIUM here.
What is written on the outside is also on the inside, appearances correspond to reality. Trade names such as “black platinum, titanium or gold” merely indicate that such metal alloys look black but aren’t black, which makes them susceptible to unsightly surface abrasions that soon reveal the coated core material.
NIELLIUM has a special aura, inspired by Japanese culture, it is surrounded by a touch of the magic of shadows. Typical for precious metal alloys, it is soft, in particular also light and requires delicate handling. Like a Chinese porcelain vase, it should not fall on rock-hard ground. Just as the finite nature of life gives rise to its value, the same may be true of such precious materials. With the difference to the vase, however, NIELLIUM can be restored and repaired immaculately at any time.
Titanium is an incredibly robust and many times harder and lighter metal than precious metals. It is characterized by its wonderful skin compatibility, which is why it is also used in medicine. Such a medical titanium alloy (Ti 90% | Al 6% | V 4%) is also used in ATELIER ALLURE due to its very good biocompatibility.
Here, too, the focus is on the authenticity of the materiality. The surfaces are neither anodized (dyed) nor coated. In order to achieve the typical contrasts in color and texture that ATELIER ALLURE strives for, the titanium surface is instead selectively bombarded with different glass bead grains. Highly polished titanium appears bright with a slightly warm, grayish tone, whereas the rougher the surface, the darker it appears. The play of shapes with light and shadow radiates drama and lightness in equal measure.
We offer yellow gold, white gold and red gold, various platinum alloys as well as palladium. Other color variations, such as medium gold (a nuance between yellow and red gold), are also available and are principally deliverable on request and after consultation. In keeping with the experimental spirit of ATELIER ALLURE, the use of other materials is conceivable and welcome.
All materials offered are purchased and processed exclusively according to sustainable and conflict-free criteria.
Read more about ring sizes here!